Template:The parable of the two Elvi

Elvis Presley’s career began and ended in Memphis Tennessee. Millions of tourists visit Graceland, 3734 Elvis Presley boulevard, where for $75 an adult can tour the king’s mansion: a bored school leaver from Bartlett hands you an iPad and headphones, ushers you into a cinema for a 15-minute film AND then into a minibus which ferries you across the Boulevard to the mansion where, following a bored lecture about touching nothing and taking no film, you follow a narrow barricaded path through Graceland’s ground floor and basement — you don’t get to see the King’s throne, alas — exiting through the Jungle Room and out to the Meditation Garden where you can stand reverentially over the Presley family graves and harmonise Heartbreak Hotel in raga. For extra you can go inside the Presley airplanes. It’s dull.

It is a experience which it is hard to recommend even to die-hard fans even though, once in your life, you have to make the pilgrimage.

Doubtless the worldwide fascination with Elvis ensures a good commercial return for Elvis Presley Enterprises — the pipeline of foreign rock ’n’ roll tragics, like the JC, doing their once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage guarantees that — but the “Gracelands experience” is a singularly uninvolving one: rather like being put on hold when you ring up the council.

A few miles up Elvis Presley Boulevard is 706 Union Avenue on the outskirts of the Memphis downtown area is a former a car-parts warehouse. It was called “The Magic Throttle Company” until Sam Phillips opened the Memphis Recording Service in 1950. By 1952 Phillips had started a record label, and in the summer of 1954 a 19-year old Elvis recorded his first single there.

You can visit Sun, which is a working studio to this day, today. The tours cost $15 a head, take about an hour, are led by knowledgeable, passionate volunteers and take in an ad hoc museum of the popularisation of “race music” from Howlin’ Wolf, B.B. King and Little Richard. They saved Dewey Phillips’ radio studio from demolition and have recreated it in the museum. The studio proper is as it was in Elvis’s day, with some of the original microphones and instruments, and x marks on the floor indicating where are Elvis, Scotty and Bill stood.

Sun Studios is a lovingly curated, interactive, almost spiritual experience.