Hinterstoisser Traverse
|
The JC gets all figurative
|
A famously difficult traverse, just under the Rote Flüh, on the north face of the Eiger,named after German climber Andreas Hinterstoisser who, in 1936, formed part of a four-man team making the second attempt to scale the north face. During the early stages of the climb Hinterstoisser brilliantly traversed a slab of icy rock until then considered uncrossable, by climbing up on it and then lowering himself, executing a “pendulum” manoeuvre to the other side, securing a rope and enabling his companions to cross the impassable section. The traverse, forever after known as the “Hinterstoisser Traverse”, made the rest of the attempt on the Eiger possible.
There still being the best part of a vertical mile to go, the group removed the ropes they had fixed on this pitch and carried on. Later, the group ran into bad weather and, when Willy Angerer was struck on the head by rockfall realised they could not make it to the summit and began a retreat. When they reached the Hinterstoisser Traverse they discovered to their horror it was impossible to reaffix the ropes they had used earlier to get across in reverse. They were trapped. There wasd no option but to try to climb back up over the pitch. This was to prove fatal. While trying to abseil over the traverse the group were caught in an avalanche and — well you can read the rest in Heinrich Harrer’s magnificent book Die Weisse Spinne.
For our earthbound, timid purposes, an excellent metaphor.